Cogullons

One place that we've been meaning to go for a long time is the remotest place described in the old Costa Daurada guide - Cogullons, and in particular the Mola Roquerola crag. Although it turned out not to be as remote as they made out, being only a steep 45min walk from Farena village, the description of it as 'beautiful bulging white, pocketed waves of bullet hard limestone perched on a convenient raised ledge system...with magnificent views' was very true!

With a perfect forecast for the weekend we arranged to meet Pete up there and also decided to pack the tent and some food and stay up for a few days.



Looking up to the crag from Farena village.





Big, but is it edible?!

On arrival at the crag it was hot - amazing at the end of November that I was regretting bringing my shorts to the crag! The routes were largely short, powerful, pocket pulling affairs of a similar style to Margalef but without the chalk to guide you! Consequently some of the onsights felt quite stiff. The crag was amazing though, and deserves far more recognition and traffic than it gets. Given that from January - June climbing here is bird banned and then from June - October it's too hot to climb, leaving only two viable months for climbing, it's amazing that it was so quiet. Especially when Siurana, Margalef and the like are often horrendously busy these days.

 

Tash on 'Situaditis' (F6b)

'Roella Blanca' (F7c)
Best route of the weekend and one of the best I've done in a long time, with some pretty unique jug hauling on the upper wall.
Worth a visit to the crag just for this one route!

The amazingly juggy upper wall of 'Roella Blanca' (7c)

The view looking out from Mola Roquerola.

Tash enjoying the last of the evening sunshine.



Tash underneath the incredible wall with 'Tonica per tutti' (7b) and Roella Blanca (7c) - some of the longest routes at the crag and a slightly different style to the rest.
Beautiful light - shame there was no-one else at the crag climbing.



Once the sun disappeared it was a bit chilly!

Sunrise from the crag - not a bad start to the day!

One of the old dwellings along the base of the crag.

Convenience camping - belay from the tent?

Sunday was a more productive day climbing-wise, with slightly cooler temperatures thanks to a nice breeze. We were on the go virtually non-stop from 10am - 4pm, before sore fingers and tired arms made us call it a day.

I managed on-sights of:

Nefertiti 6c
Mandinga bolinga 7a
Cagada rock 7b
Bondage 7b+

and redpoints of:

Tonica per tutti 7b (which I blew the onsight of the day before)
Penitenciagite 7c+

All of which were superb. Added to 'Roella Blanca' (7c) and 'Matute' (7a) from the previous day it was a fairly productive weekend and nice to get a few decent pics of me climbing for a change - thanks Pete!

The incredible wave of perfect pocketed rock with the routes 'Bondage' (7b+) and 'Penitenciagite' (7c+) on.

Sunday there were actually other people climbing at the crag!
Here on the steep, powerful start of 'Cagada rock' (7b).

'Paella mixta' (7c)

Looking back down to Farena village from the crag.