Tash's Blog: Trekking Part Two: The Arun Valley and Salpa Pass

Thwarted by snow on the high passes we were forced to walk into the Everest Region the long way, losing over 4000m of height gain before walking back up! It's a harsh landscape here too, with endless steep valleys making for a tough few days trekking and at times I was close to collapsing with exhaustion! But it was a truly amazing place, full of remote villages and friendly locals and we didn't see a single trekker along this whole section...

Hard at work ploughing the rice terraces

Starting another steep descent, galling knowing we'd have to walk back up the equally steep hill over the other side river - the theme to the Arun Valley!

A slightly hair-raising suspension bridge! We also saw monkeys climbing in the trees behind.

Not too clear from this photo but there were quite a few holes and dodgy planks!

A quaint place for lunch

Even halfway round the world in a remote rural hill village there is no escape!

Another lunch spot in this shack, we "rented" a fire to cook on whilst passing through!

Check out the carved ladder...

More rice paddies and haystacks...

Pemba (a porter who was walking with us on his way home) shows us a pretty impressive scarecrow - an eagle wing I believe.

The first (and very purple) lodge at Gothe Bazaar as we hit the main trail in to the Everest Region.

Paper making at Salpa Phedi

Pouring in the pulp (made by the boys in the nearby river)

Spreading it out...

Drying in the sun before being taken to sell in Kathmandu

Quite a production line!

A variety of baskets (or "doko") so all the family can carry loads!

Snack time!

Before sitting down to eat, this little one had been happily playing with an AA battery for literally hours...

This little girl insisted on Ali taking her photo about a hundred times!

Walking out of the busy but pretty town of Salpa Phedi (and up ANOTHER ridiculously steep hill!)

Corn drying in the sun

The ridge up to the Salpa Pass and gateway to the Everest Region

Nearly there!

Entering the sleepy and slightly odd village of Sanam...

Possibly the weirdest lodge of the trip. We were the only trekkers and were served by a doddery slightly blind lady who didn't speak a word of English. She gave us very strange tea in a flask that didn't appear to have been washed in several decades which, being British, we drank anyway to be polite!

A polite notice to use a toilet!

A Rai lady sporting a particularly elaborate nose ring. Apparently they are traditionally given to women when they marry and the clinking of gold on their teacup as they drink is a reminder of their wealth!

Rush hour Arun-Valley style!

Vegetables on the roof - great use of space!

Even the power lines are cultivated!

Ginger tea with the cows on arrival at Kiraunle...

That day (and all night!) there was a ceremony at the local monastery which we were invited to attend...

It was a "puja" or a kind of memorial service for a local woman that had died, where offerings were given and candles burned...

There was lots of chanting and tea drinking...

The chanting was interspersed with horn blowing, drumming and eating (the plates contain pototoes, rice "balls", coconut biscuits and sweets!). It was then followed by a very noisy all night dancing and drinking session!

Getting more and more populated as we head towards the Everest Region...

The meat delivery service - a man with half a buffalo in a basket going from village to village where bits were hacked off to order...

The trail relatively huge now as we approach Lukla, the usual starting point for treks in the Everest Region. Most trekkers fly, but supplies are walked in from Kathmandu on this trail.