The second instalment in the Montsant Marathon was another beautiful sunny day split between Barrots and Carrasclet. We met up with Pete & Àngels, as Pete was keen to get a few crag shots with people actually in them!
I then got back on an 8a at Carrasclets that I'd tried last November called 'Ciática'. This route is so different from most routes at Montsant, with a whole mix of styles and very few pockets, but last time I was on it I just couldn't touch it - this is what I wrote in my logbook:
"A brilliant route, but NOT 8a. Steady start on solid finger locks up the initial crack to a rest. Then 3 bolts worth of climbing which I could barely do any moves of, up to a good pocket. From here fairly steady but nice technical climbing to the top on amazing small flakes & rugosities. Must have lost crucial holds around the crux section (rock scars evident), as this is the first '8a' in about 4 years that I haven't been able to do a move first go on, never mind 10m worth of climbing!"
Today was much more succesful and I managed to work out the moves fairly easily. Not sure if I was just being useless last time or if I'm significantly stronger this year. Either way I had a couple of decent redpoints but frustratingly fell both times on the last of the hard moves on the crux section. From here there's still a lot of climbing to the top but it's more sustained and less cruxy. The second time I managed to pull straight back on and go to the top so hopefully next time it'll go - progress from last year anyway! I have a habit of saying this at the moment, but it's one of the best routes I've ever been on. Really interesting climbing up a truly stunning piece of rock.
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| Tash on 'Per amor a l'art' (6a+) at Carrasclets. |
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| 'El monstruo del Arbo-ness L3' (7a) - not bad positions! |
I then got back on an 8a at Carrasclets that I'd tried last November called 'Ciática'. This route is so different from most routes at Montsant, with a whole mix of styles and very few pockets, but last time I was on it I just couldn't touch it - this is what I wrote in my logbook:
"A brilliant route, but NOT 8a. Steady start on solid finger locks up the initial crack to a rest. Then 3 bolts worth of climbing which I could barely do any moves of, up to a good pocket. From here fairly steady but nice technical climbing to the top on amazing small flakes & rugosities. Must have lost crucial holds around the crux section (rock scars evident), as this is the first '8a' in about 4 years that I haven't been able to do a move first go on, never mind 10m worth of climbing!"
Today was much more succesful and I managed to work out the moves fairly easily. Not sure if I was just being useless last time or if I'm significantly stronger this year. Either way I had a couple of decent redpoints but frustratingly fell both times on the last of the hard moves on the crux section. From here there's still a lot of climbing to the top but it's more sustained and less cruxy. The second time I managed to pull straight back on and go to the top so hopefully next time it'll go - progress from last year anyway! I have a habit of saying this at the moment, but it's one of the best routes I've ever been on. Really interesting climbing up a truly stunning piece of rock.
not grit though is it....
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