Siurana at the weekend - what a mistake to make!

Well Tash is away this wknd, driving her car back to the UK and my psyche levels are quite low for some reason. So after a lie-in this morning, I finally made it up to Cornudella to meet Xav about 11.30am. Normally I'd be psyched to go to Margalef or Montsant at the weekend, as these are places I can't really get to in the week. But today, despite it being really warm and sunny again, I just couldn't be bothered with the walk-in and opted for an easy access sector in Siurana. We purposely chose a sector out of the main areas and somewhere that's normally quiet, to avoid the weekend crowds - L'Herbolari.

But first I wanted to check out a very small sector that I'd never been to called El Dau, with only two routes (actually it's just a big limestone boulder teetering on the edge above the red sandstone band). They were both really short and bouldery and complete sandbags at the grades (supposedly only 6c and 7a+!). But at least I can tick this crag off the to-do list!

When we arrived at L'Herbolari the crag was quite busy already, with people on most of the easy routes. But soon it just became a circus, as three or four more groups turned up with dogs and kids in tow. The space at the bottom of the routes is quite small, due to the trees coming close to the rock, so everyone was sandwiched in really close together. The dogs were fighting and barking. The kids were screaming and crying. And the adults were shouting to each other, despite being stood only a few metres apart (normal behaviour in Spain!). Thankfully they were only climbing the easy routes so it wasn't a problem for me and apart from not being able to hear Xav when he was climbing due to the noise, it was quite amusing to watch the commotion.

After almost failing to on-sight the 7a+ on the boulder I was a bit worried about how I'd get on for the rest of the day, so did an easier route to get rid of the flash pump. 'Hansel y Gretel' (F6c) turned out to be one of the best routes of the grade in Siurana - 35 metres and total class all the way, starting with some crack laybacking and then arete laybacking just before the top (it feels like you only use your left hand all the way!). The added bonus was that the route is slightly separate from the main sector so it was nice to get away from the ruckus.

After the 6c I did another fantastic route round to the left of the main sector following a shallow groove - Trifàssic de Mascaró (F7b). I was feeling well recovered by now and the 7b felt very steady, so decided to try and on-sight one of the two 7c+'s on the same front face. There was another guy on the best looking one so I had to settle for the left-hand route. The crux was pulling over a steep bulge on sharp and painful pockets reminiscent of Margalef, finishing with a hard pull on a mono. But luckily for me there was only one way to do the sequence so I didn't have to think about the moves; only pull! A nice route despite the sharp pockets.

By this point I was feeling pretty tired so decided to call it a day. After lacking psyche this morning it turned out to be quite a good day. And I managed to get a few half decent photos of the guys on some of the easier routes:

Great positions overlooking the Pantá de Siurana on 'Maria Lluisa' (F6a+)

Spring continues in Siurana...

Another murky start to the day at home, but this time we weren't to be fooled! We knew to expect wall to wall sunshine up at Siurana and we weren't disappointed :-) After a quick stop in Cornudella to get some wine from the local cellar for John & Ros we headed up to Siuranella central. I absolutely love the position of this crag, especially first thing in the morning when you arrive and the valley below is still in shade but you're up on the ledge bathed in sunshine. But with a nice breeze blowing across the crag today the conditions were perfect!

Left-hand side of Siuranella central.

I warmed up on a really nice 6c that I hadn't done before and then did a very soft 7b, before heading round the corner to do a couple of very new 7a+ routes.

Not much else to say about the day really, except that it was a pleasure to be out in the warm sunshine again. At the moment I have to keep reminding myself that it's only the beginning of February!!

Guidebooks were a pretty good invention!!...

The morning murk was around again today in Montbrió so it was very tempting to head to Masriudoms, but remembering how hot it was there yesterday made us risk the drive up the hill. When we got up to the Col de Alforja we ended up above the cloud in beautiful sunshine with a sea of white below sitting over Reus and the coast - magic! And almost the complete opposite of how it normally is.

Looking down on the cloud hanging over Reus and the coast from the Col de Alforja - what we've been sat underneath every morning this week!
Normally it's the total opposite when we have cloud inversions (i.e. clear on the coast and murky over Cornudella and Siurana)

Neither me or Xav were particularly psyched today for some reason so we weren't sure where to go. Plus at the moment it's still just a bit too cold for climbing in the shade, but absolutely baking in the sun so hard to know where to go. In the end we decided just to go to an easy access sector in Siurana and somewhere neither of us had climbed before - La Trona.

It was actually hotter than yesterday, with absolutely no breeze, so it was tops off for power again! I'd only brought Toni's old guide with us, which was completely useless to identify where the routes were, so we ended up pretty much just climbing the most obvious lines. In some ways it was quite liberating setting off not knowing what the route or grade was, but gave us a few surprises along the way!

The routes were really short and bouldery (most only 12-15m), so it was easy to get a lot done quickly. I worked my way along from left to right just doing the nicest looking lines, and only found out what I'd done when I got home and checked the new guide:

Tales of quales F7a

Esta noche pollo F7a

El senyor dels rostolls F7c (I started up this thinking it was 7a!)

La plebe F7c (I started up this thinking it was 6c!!!!)

La chocolat F7a+

Els termites F7a

Para pasar las vacaciones F7a+

In the end it got too hot to climb at all so we relaxed in the sun for a bit before heading homeward for work.

Misled by the morning murk...

With the forecast looking really good again this week, we were all set for a day at Siurana today. But we woke up to find Montbrió under a layer of murk, and couldn't even see up to the hills from the balcony...normally a bad omen! There was no sign of it burning off any time soon and it felt cold outside so we opted for the safety of Masriudoms again. But as soon as we'd parked up and started walking in, the sun came out and the temperature rocketed. We'd been well and truly duped!!

Even the almond trees are being fooled by the temperatures...they think it's spring!

Almond tree blossom - one for the nature lovers!

By the time we got to the cave it was starting to get really hot so I decided to get on my route straight away, before the temperatures got unbearable. I quickly warmed up on ATP 6c, then put the first 3 draws in my route (Ricacera). I came down and immediately went for a redpoint. The bottom crux moves felt fine, but I got a really bad flash pump immediately after, which I ended up fighting all the way (one go up a short 6c obviously wasn't sufficient warm up!). I was really pumped by the end of the 8a section, but managed to get a little bit back at the knee-bar - though nowhere near as much as I normally would from a hands off rest. I carried on anyway onto the extension and made it through the bulge and onto the upper wall, which felt fine despite being really tired and pumped, until my efforts were halted when a foothold broke. Tash was standing a way off to the right to avoid the occasional loose stuff I was kicking down, so she went flying when I fell and I took a massive fall!!! Quite exciting.

I was too disappointed for my efforts to end with a hold breaking, after fighting the pump for so long, that I couldn't face another go. So I just went to the top and stripped it on the way down, then sat around belaying and sunbathing for the rest of the day :-)

Tash had quite a few goes on ATP 6c, falling every time at the same crux move. By the time she managed to get through this move though it was absolutely baking and she was too tired to finish it off. But at least she got to a new high point!

Tash finally getting through the crux moves on ATP L1 (F6c), only to run out of steam higher up.

A weekend in Vilanova de Meià...

I can happily report that the new coffee maker works a treat, so the rest day on Friday was a pleasure!!

With an amazing forecast for the whole of Cataluña over the weekend, and temperatures set to be in the high teens, we started thinking about potential places to go. Top of the list was some more mid-winter multi-pitch, after the success of the Riglos trip last month. But where to go? So many new places to choose from!! Roca Regina, Paret de les Bagasses, Collegats, Montserrat, Àger...the list goes on...

We finally plumped for Vilanova de Meià, in the Catalan pre-pyrenees (mainly due to the inspiring cover photo of one of the guides - more on that later!). But even after deciding on the location, thumbing through the guidebooks for the area it was so hard to choose some objectives beyond the cover photo route. There is just so much rock there!! So a last-minute e-mail to Pete O'Donovan on Friday (local-ish resident and author of the latest selective guide to the Lleida area) and we had some recommended routes for the weekend.

Saturday

We set off just after 6am, and apart from hitting the dreaded fog around Lleida again (reminiscent of the drive to Riglos last month) it was a really clear run and took less than 2hrs. We came out of the fog just before Vilanova de Meià and arrived at the parking to see the sunrise while we had a cup of tea and breakfast, shivering in the shade. Today's objective was one of the routes on Roca dels Arcs - the biggest and most impressive cliff in the area. It was hard to tell how warm it was going to be so we opted to be on the warm side with base layers, t-shirts, jumper - big mistake!!! As soon as we got into the sun at the base of the route (9am) we were sweating! As you don't descend back down to the base of the route it meant we had to carry it all up with us, despite climbing in just a t-shirt and even then being too hot!

The sun just hitting Roca dels Arcs with the Lleida fog over the plains below.



Tash climbing the Verdon-style rock after the initial roof of the 6c+ pitch.



We set off up 'El Señor de los Bordillos' with no-one else in sight. I ran the first two pitches together (5+ and 6c+). These were both really nice, with the 6c+ pulling through a small roof then a bit of technical climbing on Verdon style water-worn limestone. It was so nice to be climbing in the sun with the fog below us over the plains, even if it was a little too warm!! At the belay after the 6c+ pitch lots of people started arriving - all aiming to do one of the classic 'trilogy' routes (of which ours was one), but by this time we were well ahead and out of the way of the crowds.

The rest of the route was easier climbing (6a-6b) but was still on amazingly solid rock and really interesting right to the top. The final 6b pitch actually had some pretty tricky slab moves which felt just as hard as the 6c+ pitch!!

  



One of the 6b pitches high up the route.



Tash just arriving at one of the belays - the fog still in the background!





After sweating our way up the route for the last few hours in full sun we popped over the top of the ridge about 1pm to find snow!!! And also some amazing views across to the pyrenees!

  

Walking around the final ledge to get to the very top.



On top of the final ridge with snow behind!





Unfortunately the descent down the north side was pretty unpleasant with all the snow and ice. We ended up sliding down icy mudslopes in places and then got to within 10m of the road to find a 45degree ice sheet across the whole slope! So there was only one way to get down!...



We eventually got back to the car at 2.30pm and drove down into the sun for some tea and lunch while we watched the other parties finish their routes and sorted our gear for tomorrow.

We then did the tourist thing and drove up to a beautiful little church on a promontary overlooking the village of Vilanova de Meià and relaxed in the afternoon sunshine and cooked some curry.

The refuge and church, with the buttress of Roca Alta inbetween.



'Foc de regle' - basically a huge fireplace in the middle of a room with benches round the outside...



Next stop was our B&B in the tiny village of Sant Marti de Barcedana. The narrow windy road through the gorge to get there was really icy so it was a little worrying, but we made it! The B&B was in an amazing old farmhouse from the 15th century, full of really old rustic features:

...and the whole ceiling is just one big chimney with stalagtites of soot hanging down!!





Grape press in the entrance hall!



When we first arrived, the village and house was deathly quiet...then around 9pm it seemed like everyone from the whole valley came to the house for dinner and to shout at the TV while Barça were playing...so much for rustic charm!! ;-)

Sunday
Sunday morning we drove back round through the gorge past Roca dels Arcs and got a few early morning shots.

Early morning in the valley with the village of Sant Marti de Bacedana and our B&B in. Snowy pyrenees in the distance.

Just some of the Vilanova de Meià crags. Roca dels Arcs on the right and Roca Alta far left - the destination for today.

Walking in to Roca Alta - our route takes the wall to the right of the obvious crack on the right-hand buttress.

We drove up the very long, rough and finally muddy track towards Roca Alta. The very last part of the track was too muddy to drive so we abandoned the car and started the walk-in. It turned out not to take very long at all - 30 mins up the track then scree to the base.

It was another super hot day, but this time we were more prepared with less clothes!!



Running the first two 5+ pitches together.



The route for today was one called 'Amadeus' - a choice inspired purely by the front cover photo of the local guidebook which made it look amazing.

The first pitch was a little scrappy, with very spaced bolts and slightly dubious rock in places, but as soon as you got onto the second pitch it changed completely, with totally solid limestone and a really cool groove feature to climb. The guide said to take some nuts and cams, but I didn't end up placing anything (which I was a bit disappointed about having dragged nuts and some cams up with me!!)



Pulling through the steep but very juggy band at the start of the 6c pitch.
Tops off for power...or just 'cos it was so hot!!



The 6c pitch started through a really nice steep and juggy band, then continued up the more vertical wall with a sting in the tail just before the belay.

The final pitch was definitely the highlight of the route though, and was what caught my attention from the guidebook on Friday. And it didn't disappoint!! It follows a perfect, gently overhanging grey and orange streaked wall. It started with a few technical moves from the belay which made the crux of it, then it was just amazing jug hauling all the way to the top, yarding between sharp and incut horizontal breaks and seams. It was one of the most enjoyable pitches I've done in a very long time. Everything about it was just perfect!! Felt a little like a Spanish bolted version of 'Right Wall' or something.

The photos say it all I think:




The vertical wall on the 6c pitch.

  


Starting up the final 7a pitch on 'Amadeus' at Roca Alta



Higher up on the awesome 7a pitch.





Almost there...




Tash posing for a photo where it slabs off just before the very top of the route. Happy days :-)

We topped out about 1pm again and sat around in the sun for ages admiring the views. There was a full panorama from the Lleida plains in one direction to the spikey ridge of Montserrat in another and the snowy pyrenees further round. Again, the photos and video say it all really!!

Tash at the top of the beautiful wall of 'Amadeus' (F7a), Roca Alta

The inspiration behind the whole trip - the route was just as good as it looked in this pic!!
I just wish there'd been some people following us up so I could get my own shot like this.

Looking across the misty Lleida plains.

The obligatory summit shot with snowy pyrenees in the distance!

The descent was an absolute pleasure after yesterday's snowy nightmare. 15/20 mins from the summit down to the bags on a well-made track and then another 15 back to the car. Another fairly short climbing day (we could quite easily have done another route) but it was nice to go and have some lunch in the sun and a mooch around the village before driving back...and no traffic or fog to contend with so it only took 1.5 hrs! Bonus. Another fantastic chilled out weekend - not huge amounts of climbing, but what we did do was immaculate quality and in such an amazing location. Yet another to add to the growing list of places that we need to go back to!!.....

The church in Vilanova de Meià.



A nice tasteful advert for the days hunt that was going on below us all day!!

Sleepy squirrels in Siurana...

Less wind today meant we could head up to Siurana, and despite a frosty start it was another sunny blue-sky day. We opted for a new 'village' sector - both new to me and also one of the most recently developed areas in Siurana - Can Sumera.

The sector was in a really nice location, underneath Corral Nou - very quiet and sheltered from the breeze so it was a perfect suntrap. The only noise all day was from the woodpeckers in the trees around us!

My active 'rest' day yesterday obviously wasn't as restful as I'd hoped, because I felt really tired from the start today. This, added to the fact that the routes were quite dirty and unchalked, meant that all the routes felt tough! I did a 7a and two 7a+s, which were fairly similar, but with nice technical climbing, typical of Siurana. I then tried a 7b starting through a steep roof, but disintegrating holds put a stop to my efforts! It seemed like one of those routes that had been bolted just for the sake of it - it was literally falling apart as I was climbing it :-( But the highlight of the day was an amazing 30m 7b called 'Can Fanga', which went straight up the middle of the highest bit of cliff on totally solid rock, with an amazing pumpy crux right at the end following a steep undercut flake then pulling over the lip of the roof - awesome!

The right-hand side of sector Can Sumera at Siurana.
'Can Fanga' (F7b) goes up the middle of this beautiful red wall following the obvious flakes and finishes pulling over the left end of the straight grey roof (on the far right of the crag)

Sleepy red squirrel

Tash had a bit of surprise while she was leading a really nice 6b - the crack that the route followed had this little fella in it!!!!

She thought at first that it was just sleeping or hibernating, but it turns out they don't hibernate! Which explains why it didn't attack her as she climbed past it, as she thought it would! So it must have been nesting or sheltering here and died from the cold or starvation. Poor little guy :-( I only hope he died happy in the knowledge that he'd got halfway up a 6b!!

Anyway, after five straight days climbing this week I'm looking forward to a proper rest day tomorrow and trying out coffee maker number two. Hopefully with more success than the last one!....

New toys and a new project at Masriudoms...

As is so common in this area, the start of a period of beautiful clear sunny weather comes hand in hand with a fresh breeze from the north...or more precisely a howling gale. The reason there are so many wind turbines around the hills behind us becomes evident at times like this!

But Masriudoms is always a good bet when it's so windy - a haven of warmth and shelter! After Karin & Steve had been on the Ricacera extension on Monday I was keen to get on it myself and have a look, on their recommendation. Especially as they'd taken the time to do a bit of gardening, brushing and general hold cleaning - thanks Steve! The route turned out to be very good, once again! This time with the best climbing of the route on the upper half. And apart from the big pocket that Steve had obviously had to thoroughly clear out, the rock in general was clean and solid. This pocket was still a little damp, but hopefully in another few days with the wind it'll be nice & dry. The route also turned out to be easier than I'd expected - quite a bit easier than the one I did on Monday. The lower half is significantly easier than 'Rancios', with only a few tricky moves at the start - but these weren't as hard as I'd remembered (though they are very reachy!) Then you get a perfect hands off knee-bar rest at the end of the 8a section, and the upper wall is probably comparable with the top half of 'Rancios', except maybe without the scary crux bit.

I was very tempted to come down and have a redpoint straight away, but I know Tash is keen to come back soon for her project, so I decided to leave it for next time...plus I didn't want to tick another route off the list at Masriudoms too quickly!

Javi had a go at the 7b+ extension of ATP but couldn't quite make the crux moves, so I went up to finish the route (to the end of the 8a bit) and get his draws out just for a bit of training, to end the day nicely. A short day, but as it was fourth day on I was ready for an 'active' rest day before tomorrow.

The new toys were Tash's brand new 80m rope (only its second day out!) and Javi's brand new GRIGRI 2. The new GRIGRI was very nice - super smooth paying out, like the cinch, and noticeably smaller than the old one...but at €65 I think I'll cope just using the one we've got for now!

New toys today - new rope & the GRIGRI 2 (neither of them mine unfortunately!!)