So after what feels like an age without climbing thanks to the persistent rain over the last few days, we finally managed to get out to Siurana today (in reality it's only been a week since I last climbed but it feels much longer!). It chucked it down here pretty much all day on Saturday, Monday, and Tuesday and then we had showers yesterday too. The first day was a bit of a novelty and it was quite nice to be inside cooking roast dinner, drinking wine and watching films etc with the rain lashing down outside. But after the second day of it we'd had enough! You forget what it's like not to be able to just go out climbing when you want to, and for your activities to be dictated so much by the weather. It's one reason why I think I'd find it hard to move back to the UK.
Anyway, after all that rain the crags were thoroughly soaked! We originally planned to go to Siuranella this morning, but on the drive up it was clear that the grey streaks on the crags were still running with water and that would limit what routes I'd be able to get on. So we carried on up to the village, passing Ondra on the way up who was at the parking for El Pati (strangely having his shoelaces tied for him by his mum - devoted mother or injured perhaps??). As much as I didn't really want to resort to going to Can Melafots, it was the only crag that was pretty much bone dry so was the obvious choice today - testified by the arrival of Sharma and Daila not long after, who were being filmed for something. I doubt he would have normally chosen to climb at Melafots, even if it was only to be filmed for the TV - it's not the most inspiring of crags in Siurana!
Having said that, every time I go there I'm pleasantly surprised how good the routes turn out to be. They're not very continuous and tend to consist of a hard start followed by some easier climbing before another tricky bit towards the top, but the rock is nice and the moves usually fairly interesting. My warm up (Remulo y Romo 7a) was exactly like this, and better than I thought it'd be. Tash had a go at leading it afterwards, because at this stage we thought it was the 6c next door, but she didn't get very far so I ended up climbing it again to get the draws out.
I then moved over to Ca la Isabel, the sector just along from Melafots, and got on a route that Mac had recommended to me a while ago ('La diosa del sexo' 7c+). It followed the same formula as the Melafots routes and had a pretty bouldery start, followed by a hands off rest on a ledge and then some easier climbing up the final steep section. I came very close to sacking it off at the first bolt when I couldn't work out how to do the start without a dynamic move to grab a really painful hold. After a few goes at this poor method I sorted out a better and more static way, using the painful hold with the other hand and it was way easier. The upper steep bit was also easier than I expected from the way Mac had described it and was really enjoyable with some long moves between good holds and an awesome 'cut loose' sideways move. After putting the draws in I came down and had a few minutes rest before doing it first go. I was quite pleased that it felt so steady, having only sat on the sofa for the last week eating roast dinners, cake and scones. But it's probably more a sign that it wasn't very hard for 7c+! Anyway, a great route and it was really nice to be outside climbing again.
Driving down from Siurana there were plenty of people climbing up at Siuranella and the rock was so much drier than this morning, so hopefully in a day or two it'll be back to business as usual and all the rock will be back in action.
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| Some dude on 'Boy's don't cry' (F7c) at Sector Ca la Isabel, just to the left of my route for today. |
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