Welcome to a slightly different blog… From now on Ali will be writing a purely climbing blog and I’ll be covering the “other stuff”. So if you want the beta on his latest crushes click HERE, or read on for the more fluffy stuff from our travels and non climbing life...

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Summer training starts early...

We've had a few days of pretty grey and miserable weather this week. No rain yet, but Tuesday and Wednesday were very overcast, so we weren't that psyched to go out climbing - I'm definitely turning into a fair weather climber!

Today the sun was out again and it was actually really warm, so it wasn't hard to leave the house this morning. We went to Siuranella again, but this time to the South sector. I warmed up by putting the draws in Tash's aim for the day - the 6b+ 'Like a cuc' - and then I did the 7b+ ('Statge') which breaks out left from it. This was actually better than it looks, despite feeling a bit eliminate at the bottom, and saves the crux until the very end!

Tash then got on 'Like a cuc' and did it as her warm up! Such a massive difference from the last time she was on it in January when she was really struggling from the outset, and didn't even manage to get to the top! It's really good to see how much progress she's made in the last five months since moving down here and climbing more regularly.

I then did an awesome 7b called 'Laberint dels cucs'. This provided probably the most traditional experience of any climb I've done in Siurana, and was good training for some crack climbing in the summer! It had absolutely no chalk on it and was pretty dirty, especially towards the top where I had to do some cleaning as I went(!), so I guess it doesn't get climbed very often. After a steep, bouldery start it follows a striking crack/groove all the way to the top of the crag, requiring a combination of laybacking, bridging, jamming and insecure back & footing! Excellent stuff, and not what you expect from a sport route in Siurana! A real hidden gem, if you like that kind of thing!

I finished off by putting the draws in 'Ayla' (7a) for Tash to have a go on top-rope. I'd forgotten how strenuous this route is at the bottom(!), especially today in full sun and with the crack being a little humid/damp. Tash had a good workout on this, including some practice for the summer pulling between draws at the bottom! ;-) On the way down I had a quick play on the 8a that breaks out left from it ('Drack'), but it was pretty crap to be honest. Only three or four hard moves on tiny tiny crimps making up the meat of the route, to get between the crack of Ayla out to the easy crack up the arete on the left. The crux felt nigh on impossible today with sweaty fingers and I didn't want to lose too much skin trying so very quickly sacked it off!


Big swing out from one of the routes at Siuranella South.

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