Now that the 1st of April's out of the way I can explain what really happened today. Nothing as exciting as a 9b but still a pretty good day. It was really warm and we did go to El Pati and Tash did finish off her project there with no drama at all - 'Viagraman' (yet another 7a for her!). I also finished off something I'd been on once before in November last year - a 7c+ called 'Prisa mata'. The route starts off pretty poorly, with the rock on the easy lower wall being quite rotten (I knocked a few big holds off on the way up). Then you get to the roof and have to extend the draw under it to avoid horrific rope drag and pull on some very suspicious holds through the roof until you can clip the next draw over the roof. Clipping this draw you're hanging with both hands off a hollow jug which feels like it'll break off any day, and facing an almighty and painful swing into the slab below if it does! Not nice. But despite all this the route's worth persevering with, as once you get onto the upper wall where the hard climbing is the rock is immaculate and the moves fantastic. It follows a thin crack at first requiring a subtle combination of laybacking, pinching and classic finger locks, then continues up the wall above on some hidden pockets and undercuts. After putting the draws in I did it first redpoint today, but it was pretty close!
Afterwards, as we'd both finished our routes so quickly, we decided to treat ourselves (well...Tash treated us more precisely!) to some pastries from the bakery in Cornudella which we ate in the sunshine down by the lake underneath Siurana. Not a bad way to start a Friday! :-)
Afterwards, as we'd both finished our routes so quickly, we decided to treat ourselves (well...Tash treated us more precisely!) to some pastries from the bakery in Cornudella which we ate in the sunshine down by the lake underneath Siurana. Not a bad way to start a Friday! :-)
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