Welcome to a slightly different blog… From now on Ali will be writing a purely climbing blog and I’ll be covering the “other stuff”. So if you want the beta on his latest crushes click HERE, or read on for the more fluffy stuff from our travels and non climbing life...

Sunday, September 25, 2011

With Tash's back still playing up and the temperatures remaining in the high twenties it's been a fairly quiet week on the climbing front. Today we got back out to Siurana and had another fairly relaxed day just trying to get back into things, without pushing it too much right away.

First stop was a strength & fitness test for us both on a very familiar route at El Pati sector, which was still in the shade when we arrived - Viagraman (7a). This is the route I used to warm up on every day when I was working Kalea Borroka, and which towards the end wouldn't even get the blood flowing as I was so fit and familiar with the route. It was also one of Tash's first 7a's. Today it got me pumped! I still managed to get up it, and every move felt as familiar as it did two years ago, but I had to actually put some effort in to get up; something I wasn't so familiar with! A sign of how much training I'll have to put in to get back to my previous level.

After warming up on that, and Tash succesfully top-roping it with a few rests (just happy that she can actually climb again!), we moved on to Siuranella East which was coming into the shade. The left-hand side of this sector is a place I'd never climbed at before, but it turned out to have some absolute gems. Actually some of the best of the grade in Siurana.

'La marca del sorru' (F6b+) *** - incredible flake finishing with some jamming and laybacking where the crack narrows
'L'angelet' (F6c) ** - nice pocketed lower wall leading to the awkward layback crack
'Turbo-lover' (F6c+) *** - stiff crimpy crux pulling through the bulge leading to the steeper headwall on good pockets and hidden edges


Tash surveying old stomping grounds. From L - R El Pati, El Cargol tower, Primavera.

I finished off the day with a lap on another old favourite - 'Lo deje to blanco' (7a). This one I actually fell off last weekend at the end of the day (the first year I've done that after a period of no climbing, so another sign of my current weakness). Thankfully I got up it ok today!

Tash's back seems to be recovering so fingers crossed we can get out more from now on...

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