A weekend up North: Camarasa & Terradets

Finally the Spring showers/storms seem to have died down and the Friday forecast was good enough to plan a trip further afield, so we settled on going 'up North' and our first trip to Camarasa.

It took less time than expected to get up there and in just over 1h30 we were at the parking - not that much further than Margalef! We met Pete, who was up there for another day of equipping, and he recommended some good sectors for a first visit so we headed initially to sector Fashion for a few warm-up routes. The position of these crags is pretty impressive - high up on the side of the gorge above the River Segre and the hydroelectric plant.

The outlook from sector Fashion high up in the gorge.

With the crags in the shade all morning and a breeze blowing down the valley the conditions were ideal. I started on a great 6b+ ('Hugo Gos') and then 'Aromes de Camarasa' (7a+) - both very nice routes on immaculate rock. After Tash had warmed up on 'Hugo Gos' we moved round the corner to sector La Selva. With it being one of the best sectors in Camarasa we were expecting it to be really busy but there were a grand total of four other climbers there - a far cry from the crowds at Margalef these days! The classic harder route here is 'Shere Khan' (7c+), which looked amazing - starting up a perfect tufa and then continuing up the wall above to a final steep bulge. There was a Swiss couple trying this route all the time we were there so I didn't manage to get on it, but it looked like fairly basic endurance climbing with a steep finish so I think I'll try and save it for the onsight when I've got some stamina back.

The line of 'Shere Khan' (7c+) - follows the tufa and the wall above.

Instead, I did a 7b+ just to the right ('Masterpiece'), which was superb and again on immaculate rock. Shame there were a few suspiciously shaped (drilled?) two finger pockets at the bottom, but other than that it was amazing. Next up was another great route - 'Akela' (7b/+) - one of a trio of routes starting with the same shared bouldery start, and then round the corner 'La Reina d'Àfrica' (7a+). Tash did the classic easier route at the crag - 'Viagra' (6b+), which she thought was fantastic too.

Tash in the centre of the amphitheatre of La Selva sector.

By this time the sector was just starting to creep into the sun and it was getting hot so we headed to a different sector which is permanently shaded on two sides of a detached pinnacle - La Pera. The breeze was blowing stronger here and it was even a little chilly out of the sun! The rock was reminiscent of some of the upper level grey rock in Siurana - just off vertical and covered in small pockets and regletas, with some of the routes following stunning crack lines. Tash did a superb 6b+ crack line ('W@b  Pera's') and I did another 7a+ ('El Canto d'un Duro') - only one hard move on this route but I was starting to feel tired and it felt pretty tough! With two more days climbing planned we decided to call it a day and head down.

With some beta from Pete we found a perfect camping spot just above the lake at St Llorenç de Montgai. After dinner and a few well earned cold beers in the evening sunshine we had a wander round the lake and down to the village. I'm not surprised that a man who's travelled and climbed all over the world since he was about 15 and could choose to live pretty much anywhere chose St Llorenç de Montgai to buy a house! A beautiful quiet village in a stunning location on the shore of the lake with nice fishing and world-class climbing literally on the doorstep.

Officially there's no camping on the shore of the lake but plenty of fishermen staying in vans at St Llorenç de Montgai - I need a van!

Our perfect camping spot next morning.

The beautiful location of St Llorenç de Montgai village - start of the village just visible centre of shot.

Next morning (Sunday) for a bit of variety we decided to go up to Terradets and to the north facing sector Regina. Shaded all day and with incredible long tufa routes, this sector has the added advantage of a 40min approach, meaning zero crowds!

Walking past the impressive multi-pitch wall of Roca Regina - too hot for today!

That's better - the slightly less impressive looking sport sector of Regina, but with shade all day and tufa routes up to 35m long it was a better choice for today!

The only disadvantage of this crag is that there's literally nothing easier than F7b/+! Fortunately Tash was psyched to get on a project and even more psyched to get on some tufas, so I had the perfect route in mind for her!

Tash making good progress on her project on top rope.

A much better photo of Eddie on Tash's project - the awesome 'Pin pam plus' (7b+).

After warming up by repeating 'Pin pam plus', I was pleased to onsight the 7c next door ('Tram Burocràtic') - another incredible route. After this I was planning to get back on 'El Repte' (8a) - the route I tried the only other time I'd been to this crag - but the initial tufas looked a bit wet and dirty still, so I decided instead to get on 'Greenwich' (8a). This turned out to be yet another brilliant route, despite the sika on the lower orange wall reinforcing some of the holds. First go up it felt very hard indeed and I had real trouble doing the crux moves on the lower wall. I spent a long time and wasted a lot of energy trying these moves. Fortunately after this it eases off and goes into classic juggy tufa climbing to the top (a little bit dirty in places). After a rest belaying Tash on her route I had a no expectations go on redpoint but couldn't do the crux moves and fell where I expected. Fortunately I managed to work out an easier way to do the final move of the crux sequence which made it much more do-able but by now I was pretty tired. I managed to get to the top easily enough and worked out a few little tricks higher up before stripping the route. Unfinished business for next weekend, weather permitting!

The only other guys at the crag - Left on 'Vitamina N' (7c+) and Right on an unnamed 8a.

Just another incredible looking unnamed 8a at sector Regina!

Mini crag dog!

When we'd both had enough of a beasting on the tufas we headed down to the Font de les Bagasses for a quick wash and to rehydrate and cook dinner.

Dinner time in Terradets gorge underneath the imposing Paret de Les Bagasses.

After another night at the camping spot near St Llorenç de Montgai, Monday morning we went back to Camarasa and this time to Kuestelon la France sector. This one felt a little more 'old-school', being closer to the road and obviously more popular, although this morning we were alone at the crag. First impressions were that it wasn't quite as impressive as La Selva the other day, but after I'd done a few routes I completely changed my mind, with the rock quality more than making up for the less steep and shorter nature of the routes. We warmed up on 'Tascones Lejanos' (6a+) and then I did two routes that shared the same piece of immaculate wall. 'No Tatrinkis' (7a+) and 'Bursitis' (7b+) were two of the best routes I did at Camarasa, both climbing a perfect vertical wall of solid grey limestone with loads of hidden crimps, pockets and flatties. Tash tried to do a 6c just to the left ('Reacció en Cadena') but it was a bit runout and insecure at the crux so she settled for top-roping it after I'd put the draws in. I finished off with 'Vertuguits' (7a+) which, despite feeling a little eliminate, was another great route.

Tash enjoying a bit of sunshine by the river. The end of an awesome trip 'up North' - hopefully we'll be back next weekend!

Scoping out some trad lines at El Falcó...

After a good morning ticking some more of the amazing routes at El Falcó I finally checked out the hugely underdeveloped wall round the corner (the glaringly obvious one you always look at across the valley from Siurana). The highlight of the routes I did this morning was 'Tu pa los pollos moreno' (7b), which has to be a contender for the best route at El Falcó. And considering how good pretty much every route is there that's really saying something! It's such a shame that there aren't more routes on this wall, as I've almost done them all now.

The amazing wall of El Falcó - home to 45m wall climbs, each one a classic.

So after ticking the remaining routes on the wall I decided to have a look round the corner to find some potential for the future. It turned out to be a mixed bag, with a few incredible looking sport routes (in particular a perfect 7b+ crack line, another 8a wall climb and some ongoing project lines), plus some fairly average ones, but also a few trad lines!! There was one perfect 6a flake line, then another 7a crack/groove with some in-situ pegs, plus another 7a+ groove line completely free of in-situ gear! All of them 30m routes, and all will be 3* classic single pitch trad routes. That I can tell without leaving the floor. I have to say, I'm slightly concerned about jumping on them as I imagine they're unlikely to have had many ascents at all so will undoubtedly be filthy. Plus trad gear in dirty and slightly friable limestone is never confidence inspiring, so we'll have to see...

The very underdeveloped wall around the corner from the usual El Falcó crag.

A humbling morning...

Today we went to a new sector in Siurana (Can Famal) - some might say it's a crag full of sandbags right next to the smelly waste water pipe; others would call it a hidden gem of a crag, a lost paradise - I'm with the second mindset!

So after bashing our way through the overgrown jungle that is the approach path, we made it down past the stinky water pipe and arrived at the shady crag.

The approach path!

Can Famal crag in the sun (photo from the guide).

Thankfully the crag turned out to be pretty good, despite the routes being pretty hard for the grade. We started on a brilliant steep and twisting 6b+ crack ('Stramonium flash') which started off with a bit of an offwidth, then steep bridging and finally some strenuous undercutting and laybacking - classic! I then did a total sandbag of a 7a. A good route, but hard. I finished off with a '7b', or more accurately the '7b' finished me off! It felt as hard as a 7b+ or even 7c at some of the other sectors in Siurana and was a serious fight. After a steep start, there's a bit of easy slab climbing before the wall steepens up again and the route follows a thin slanting crack line which you have to undercut at first then switch over to laybacking - very delicate - and when you get to some good holds and think it's all over then the crux arrives! And even after this there's a hard pull through the final bulge just before the belay! A hidden 3* classic - 'El llangardaix mogut'.

Tash just about to set off on another sandbag!

For the flower lovers - roses in bloom in Siurana.

Day of two halves at a new crag...

After checking out the crags of Pinell de Brai, near Gandesa, a few months ago we finally made it down to climb there today. Following a big thunderstorm on Saturday night (just like last weekend!), Sunday morning was very cool and fresh relative to how it's been in the last few weeks. But we didn't expect it to be as cold as it was! So with all the crags in the shade in the morning and no warm clothes we struggled to warm up with numb fingers (something I haven't had for several months now!). At the first sector we went to (Pared dels diedres) the climbing was variable in quality, but we picked out some of the best-looking routes. Unfortunately the cold wind meant we had to climb in blocks to try and stay warm between climbs, but even then it was still quite hard to stay motivated shivering in the shade - especially when the sun was so close behind us!

Sector 'Pared dels diedres' in the sunshine later in the day.

Fortunately the wind was blowing a bit less strongly at the next sector we went to so it was more bearable. This sector (Parvulari Strep) was much better quality than the previous, with some really nice 3* wall climbs on perfect rock.

Sector 'Parvulari Strep' just right of centre.

The rock on the right-hand side of sector 'Parvulari Strep'.

I started on a fantastic 7a+ called 'Wanadoo' which, after traversing the lip of a small cave, continued up the technical headwall on amazing thin flakes that looked like they'd been stuck on the rock. Then another brilliant 7a+ ('La Machina') on perfect orange and grey streaked rock.

The left-hand side of Parvulari Strep, with the line of 'La Machina' above Tash.

Next up, with the sun now coming round onto the wall, we went round the corner to the main event at Pinell de Brai - La Cova. Home to some amazing steep tufa climbs in the main cave, plus a few nice wall climbs on the right-hand side. I started on an unknown route on the first wall (somewhere around the 7a mark?) which followed a good line of right facing flakes.

Tash top-roping the good but unknown 7a(?) on the right-hand side of the Cova sector.

By now, with the sun fully shining on the crag and the wind gone, the temperatures were back to what we were more used to (i.e. roasting!). After all the rain we've had in recent weeks most of the tufa routes in the cave were still a little wet, but the classic easy route in the cave ('Spanish show' - 7c) was dry, so I had a go. The onsight go ended, predictably, at the initial roof crux which involves a massive and unpredictable 'drive-by' move and I missed the hold I was going for. The rest of the route was easy, except for a nasty sting in the tail rocking over onto a slopey foothold on the final slab. By this point the sun was beating down and it felt way too hot for a redpoint, so we decided to call it a day. What a contrast from this morning! A great route, and one to come back for. Hopefully all the tufa routes will be dry next time too.

Random Spanish dude on 'Spanish show' (7c) at the Cova sector at Pinell de Brai.

A good set of crags for summer mornings, and I'm definitely psyched for a return - especially the Cova sector. And the bonus is that they seem to be pretty much unknown. Apart from two other guys at the Cova sector we were alone all day - a far cry from the crowds at Margalef and Siurana every weekend!

Double success...

To both of our surprise, we ticked our projects today. The morning basically followed exactly the same format as last Thursday. I put the draws in for Tash on 'Bindelef', then put the draws in my route. I actually said to Tash "I'll be amazed if I do it today", because it felt so humid and sweaty. But after Tash succesfully top-roped her route, I redpointed mine. This time there was no messing about on the crux but I almost blew if afterwards on the top wall when my foot popped, then forgot what I was doing and got pumped working the sequence out!

Tash then surprised herself and on her first redpoint go she did her route. Her second 7a+! Watch out Matt, that 7b doesn't look too far away! ;-)

As for the grade of 'De aqui a la luna y volver', well it gets 8a+ in the guide so I'll take that for now. No-one seems to have done it in the usual places (UKC or 8a.nu) and I've never seen anyone on it in all the years I've been in Siurana. Plus when I first tried it there was no chalk on it at all beyond the lower crux, despite the wall never getting wet to clean it off, so maybe it hasn't had a repeat? Who knows. The first time I got on it I could barely do any of the upper crux moves, and linking them felt so far away. The individual moves certainly felt infinitely harder than anything on 'Zona O', which gets 8b (concensus is that it's soft at this though). So maybe 'De aqui a la luna...' is more 8b than 8a+? Especially if you avoid copping out rightwards into the 7c to avoid the hard bit just before the crux. Anyway, despite the band of slightly suspect rock at the bottom of the wall the route is incredible, taking a line up the most blank and unlikely section of wall between the two obvious crack lines. Hopefully more people will get on it now...

A delayed weekend in Margalef...

Due to it being a fairly miserable, grey, and damp day on Saturday (finished off with a spectacular thunderstorm) we decided to delay our weekend plans and stay over in Margalef on Sunday night instead.

Despite the biblical amounts of rain the previous night, Sunday turned out to be a beautiful sunny day, but with all the water evaporating rapidly in the heat it was like a rainforest in Margalef, with what felt like 100% humidity! Not great conditions, but on the plus side the rain seemed to have put most people off, and the crags were nice and quiet.

We went first to Can Verdures to warm up, where I did a 6c and 7a and Tash did a couple of nice routes. Then we went round to Cova Soleiada - home to a dozen excellent routes from 8a - 8c+ and, barring a solitary 6c, nothing easier. My project here is Esau Directa, something I've been on numerous times before over the last few years but never invested too much time in, so every time I get on it I've forgotten how to do it! First go up was no different and it felt desperate again, not helped by the ridiculous humidity which made the small tufa pinches and shallow slopey pockets in the lower half very hard to hold. So after sweating my way up it and expending a lot of energy working the moves out, I was feeling pretty frustrated and wasn't too keen for another go up it. Plus my right elbow (well, the base of the bicep where it joins the elbow), which I pulled in St Leger, was starting to twinge again. So I stripped the draws on the way down. But after sitting around for half an hour or so to stop sweating, I decided to have another play just on the bottom half (where all the hardest climbing is). This time, as is so often the case, with the moves more familiar it felt much more do-able, but with the humidity as it was I couldn't imagine being able to redpoint it. And by now my bicep was really starting to hurt. Not knowing when I'd next be back on the route, to make it more efficient I tried making a video describing the beta so I'd remember for next time, but forgot what to do half way through the description - doh!

The awesome Cova Soleiada (left) catching the morning sun. Can Verdures on the right.

After this we went back round to Can Pesafigues for Tash to do some more on-sighting, before going up to the free camping area by the dam. Normally we avoid this like the plague, as it gets so busy, but today with it being a Sunday night and with so few people around the camping area was almost deserted.

Beer in the sun. Note the nice shiny car - washed by the downpour the night before :-)

Monday morning in Margalef - I love working evenings!

Monday morning was another beautiful sunny day, and today we opted for the other valley in Margalef and the Raco de la Finestra crag - the best shady sector in Margalef by a long way but normally busy at weekends. Today it was deserted, and Tash finally managed to do Magraña. This 6b+ is without doubt one of the best low grade routes in Margalef, climbing amazing flowing tufa rock like dripping candle wax. Normally it has a constant queue of people waiting for it, but today no-one!

Pete's excellent photo of a fantastic route - 'Magraña' (6b+)

After this we moved round to the left-hand side of the crag. I ticked off a few routes that I couldn't remember if I'd done before or not (two 7b's) and then put the draws in the brilliant 'Crucigrama' (7a+/b). Tash wanted to try a 7b, so this seemed like a good one to start on. It felt harder than I remembered, especially the initial moves around the first bolt and I'm sure a hold has broken making it more difficult - solid 7b now? Tash had a good go at it, and once past the initial hard section she made good progress - one to work on?

I then put the draws in a 7c+ that I'd been on years ago - 'Morphos'. First go up it felt hard and really sweaty and humid again, but after a short rest I had a redpoint. Surprisingly I felt quite good on it but halfway through the crux my hand just unexpectedly greased and I was off - such were the conditions! We didn't have time for another go, so headed back home in time for work.

Raco de la Finestra - the huge shadow on the left is the main feature of the crag (an enormous 30m overhang) but sadly home to nothing easier than 8c! What a crag!

How close can you get with no cigar?!

There's not much to say about today other than that really!

We went to L'Aparador again. I warmed up on Tash's new project 'Bindelef' (7a+), then put the draws in my route. After a rest I had a redpoint. I felt good on it, managing to get plenty back at the mid-height rest, and got all the way through the crux sequence. Just when I thought it was in the bag, when I was rocking over to reach good holds and guaranteed success, something went wrong. I'd like to blame my rock shoe (the big flap of rubber that's coming off the sole caught on the edge I was rocking on to so I had to hang around adjusting that for a few seconds), but ultimately I didn't rock over far enough and fell off literally tickling the bottom of the final sidepull! Grrr

Oh well, at least it proved that the route's possible. Something I didn't think the first time I got on it. So we'll have to see what happens next week when I get back on it...

The L'Aparador wall at Siurana (for anyone that doesn't know and is interested).
This guy's on Disbarauxa (7b).
Tash's route (Rauxa) that she did on Tuesday is the crack just to the left.
My project is up the blank wall just left again.