After a good morning ticking some more of the amazing routes at El Falcó I finally checked out the hugely underdeveloped wall round the corner (the glaringly obvious one you always look at across the valley from Siurana). The highlight of the routes I did this morning was 'Tu pa los pollos moreno' (7b), which has to be a contender for the best route at El Falcó. And considering how good pretty much every route is there that's really saying something! It's such a shame that there aren't more routes on this wall, as I've almost done them all now.
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| The amazing wall of El Falcó - home to 45m wall climbs, each one a classic. |
So after ticking the remaining routes on the wall I decided to have a look round the corner to find some potential for the future. It turned out to be a mixed bag, with a few incredible looking sport routes (in particular a perfect 7b+ crack line, another 8a wall climb and some ongoing project lines), plus some fairly average ones, but also a few trad lines!! There was one perfect 6a flake line, then another 7a crack/groove with some in-situ pegs, plus another 7a+ groove line completely free of in-situ gear! All of them 30m routes, and all will be 3* classic single pitch trad routes. That I can tell without leaving the floor. I have to say, I'm slightly concerned about jumping on them as I imagine they're unlikely to have had many ascents at all so will undoubtedly be filthy. Plus trad gear in dirty and slightly friable limestone is never confidence inspiring, so we'll have to see...
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| The very underdeveloped wall around the corner from the usual El Falcó crag. |
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