Welcome to a slightly different blog… From now on Ali will be writing a purely climbing blog and I’ll be covering the “other stuff”. So if you want the beta on his latest crushes click HERE, or read on for the more fluffy stuff from our travels and non climbing life...

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Très windy Tres Ponts

With a good forecast extending to Sunday night we decided to go away again this weekend, but to come back Sunday night to avoid the predicted thunderstorms. As the crags only go into the shade in the early afternoon we were able to have a fairly relaxed morning on Saturday before setting off - 2.5hrs later and we arrived to a very windy Tres Ponts. The crags were still partly in the sun but the strong wind meant it was just about possible to warm up in the sun. As soon as they went into the shade conditions became perfect!

The crag of Tres Ponts on the bank of the River Segre.


The newly installed bridges making the approach much easier.


I warmed up on 'Aonvolsnà', which conveniently starts with a 6b+ first pitch followed by a 7a/+ steeper second pitch (the 8b extension to this looks amazing!), then an unnamed 7b over on the left which was also superb. Next up I intended to have a go at the classic 7b+ 'Esperit Jove' but got confused where it steepens up and splits into two. I thought there was an extra route, heading rightwards, so I took the middle line, which turned out to be 'Mites Moderns' (8a). I fought my way into the crux but fell off where it moves out rightwards to join the other route, getting a total flash pump in the process! After I'd got to the top and then stripped it I got down to check the guide and realised I'd taken the wrong line.

Once I'd got rid of the pump I did a few of the less well-travelled routes over on the right hand side of the crag. These turned out to be far better than they looked from the bottom and would be 2/3 star classics anywhere but are overlooked most of the time, being a bit away from the main wall. Here I did 'Graellada' (7b+) and 'Forat Penat' (7b/+) - the latter being solid 7b+ if compared to the former! After the unplanned onsight attempt of 'Mites Moderns' I was getting pretty tired by now so decided to call it a day and save something for the following day.

Unknown climber on 'Alt Urgell' (8a)


High up on the very long and very classic 'Segre' (8a).


As well as world-class climbing in this area, Parapenting seems to be a pretty popular activity so after we'd finished climbing we stopped off to check it out.



Coming in to land.


Perfect wild camping spot at Col Piqué.


Tent just visible between the bushes.


Sant Climent de Coll de Nargó church.


Breakfast down by the Pantà d'Oliana.


Coll de Nargó village across the water.


Early morning fishing on the Pantà d'Oliana.


Sadly for them all the fish were over our side of the lake - so close you could pick them out of the water!


Next day we were back at Tres Ponts and once the sun had gone off the crag conditions were the same as yesterday, with a strong wind blowing down the gorge.

Today I managed to go the right way on 'Espirit Jove' and did it succesfully. What a classic route! After this we went over to the right hand side again and I did yet another superb and totally overlooked classic - 'Taghia' (7b+). Much more technical than the standard Tres Ponts fare and following two steep right-facing corners the climbing on it is superb, with really intricate and tenuous bridging and laybacking. With so many soft-touch routes at Tres Ponts it's easy to get complacent but this one felt like "proper" 7b+. An old-school 7b+! Not only did it tire me out, but my elbow had started twinging again (a recurring injury from St Leger that doesn't seem to be improving at all). So after this I just did one more route, an unnamed 50m(!) 7a+, to cool down. And then it was time to head home for pizza and beers :-)


Classic steepness on 'Espirit Jove' (7b+).


Tres Ponts wildlife!

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