A weekend up North: Camarasa & Terradets

Finally the Spring showers/storms seem to have died down and the Friday forecast was good enough to plan a trip further afield, so we settled on going 'up North' and our first trip to Camarasa.

It took less time than expected to get up there and in just over 1h30 we were at the parking - not that much further than Margalef! We met Pete, who was up there for another day of equipping, and he recommended some good sectors for a first visit so we headed initially to sector Fashion for a few warm-up routes. The position of these crags is pretty impressive - high up on the side of the gorge above the River Segre and the hydroelectric plant.

The outlook from sector Fashion high up in the gorge.

With the crags in the shade all morning and a breeze blowing down the valley the conditions were ideal. I started on a great 6b+ ('Hugo Gos') and then 'Aromes de Camarasa' (7a+) - both very nice routes on immaculate rock. After Tash had warmed up on 'Hugo Gos' we moved round the corner to sector La Selva. With it being one of the best sectors in Camarasa we were expecting it to be really busy but there were a grand total of four other climbers there - a far cry from the crowds at Margalef these days! The classic harder route here is 'Shere Khan' (7c+), which looked amazing - starting up a perfect tufa and then continuing up the wall above to a final steep bulge. There was a Swiss couple trying this route all the time we were there so I didn't manage to get on it, but it looked like fairly basic endurance climbing with a steep finish so I think I'll try and save it for the onsight when I've got some stamina back.

The line of 'Shere Khan' (7c+) - follows the tufa and the wall above.

Instead, I did a 7b+ just to the right ('Masterpiece'), which was superb and again on immaculate rock. Shame there were a few suspiciously shaped (drilled?) two finger pockets at the bottom, but other than that it was amazing. Next up was another great route - 'Akela' (7b/+) - one of a trio of routes starting with the same shared bouldery start, and then round the corner 'La Reina d'Àfrica' (7a+). Tash did the classic easier route at the crag - 'Viagra' (6b+), which she thought was fantastic too.

Tash in the centre of the amphitheatre of La Selva sector.

By this time the sector was just starting to creep into the sun and it was getting hot so we headed to a different sector which is permanently shaded on two sides of a detached pinnacle - La Pera. The breeze was blowing stronger here and it was even a little chilly out of the sun! The rock was reminiscent of some of the upper level grey rock in Siurana - just off vertical and covered in small pockets and regletas, with some of the routes following stunning crack lines. Tash did a superb 6b+ crack line ('W@b  Pera's') and I did another 7a+ ('El Canto d'un Duro') - only one hard move on this route but I was starting to feel tired and it felt pretty tough! With two more days climbing planned we decided to call it a day and head down.

With some beta from Pete we found a perfect camping spot just above the lake at St Llorenç de Montgai. After dinner and a few well earned cold beers in the evening sunshine we had a wander round the lake and down to the village. I'm not surprised that a man who's travelled and climbed all over the world since he was about 15 and could choose to live pretty much anywhere chose St Llorenç de Montgai to buy a house! A beautiful quiet village in a stunning location on the shore of the lake with nice fishing and world-class climbing literally on the doorstep.

Officially there's no camping on the shore of the lake but plenty of fishermen staying in vans at St Llorenç de Montgai - I need a van!

Our perfect camping spot next morning.

The beautiful location of St Llorenç de Montgai village - start of the village just visible centre of shot.

Next morning (Sunday) for a bit of variety we decided to go up to Terradets and to the north facing sector Regina. Shaded all day and with incredible long tufa routes, this sector has the added advantage of a 40min approach, meaning zero crowds!

Walking past the impressive multi-pitch wall of Roca Regina - too hot for today!

That's better - the slightly less impressive looking sport sector of Regina, but with shade all day and tufa routes up to 35m long it was a better choice for today!

The only disadvantage of this crag is that there's literally nothing easier than F7b/+! Fortunately Tash was psyched to get on a project and even more psyched to get on some tufas, so I had the perfect route in mind for her!

Tash making good progress on her project on top rope.

A much better photo of Eddie on Tash's project - the awesome 'Pin pam plus' (7b+).

After warming up by repeating 'Pin pam plus', I was pleased to onsight the 7c next door ('Tram Burocràtic') - another incredible route. After this I was planning to get back on 'El Repte' (8a) - the route I tried the only other time I'd been to this crag - but the initial tufas looked a bit wet and dirty still, so I decided instead to get on 'Greenwich' (8a). This turned out to be yet another brilliant route, despite the sika on the lower orange wall reinforcing some of the holds. First go up it felt very hard indeed and I had real trouble doing the crux moves on the lower wall. I spent a long time and wasted a lot of energy trying these moves. Fortunately after this it eases off and goes into classic juggy tufa climbing to the top (a little bit dirty in places). After a rest belaying Tash on her route I had a no expectations go on redpoint but couldn't do the crux moves and fell where I expected. Fortunately I managed to work out an easier way to do the final move of the crux sequence which made it much more do-able but by now I was pretty tired. I managed to get to the top easily enough and worked out a few little tricks higher up before stripping the route. Unfinished business for next weekend, weather permitting!

The only other guys at the crag - Left on 'Vitamina N' (7c+) and Right on an unnamed 8a.

Just another incredible looking unnamed 8a at sector Regina!

Mini crag dog!

When we'd both had enough of a beasting on the tufas we headed down to the Font de les Bagasses for a quick wash and to rehydrate and cook dinner.

Dinner time in Terradets gorge underneath the imposing Paret de Les Bagasses.

After another night at the camping spot near St Llorenç de Montgai, Monday morning we went back to Camarasa and this time to Kuestelon la France sector. This one felt a little more 'old-school', being closer to the road and obviously more popular, although this morning we were alone at the crag. First impressions were that it wasn't quite as impressive as La Selva the other day, but after I'd done a few routes I completely changed my mind, with the rock quality more than making up for the less steep and shorter nature of the routes. We warmed up on 'Tascones Lejanos' (6a+) and then I did two routes that shared the same piece of immaculate wall. 'No Tatrinkis' (7a+) and 'Bursitis' (7b+) were two of the best routes I did at Camarasa, both climbing a perfect vertical wall of solid grey limestone with loads of hidden crimps, pockets and flatties. Tash tried to do a 6c just to the left ('Reacció en Cadena') but it was a bit runout and insecure at the crux so she settled for top-roping it after I'd put the draws in. I finished off with 'Vertuguits' (7a+) which, despite feeling a little eliminate, was another great route.

Tash enjoying a bit of sunshine by the river. The end of an awesome trip 'up North' - hopefully we'll be back next weekend!