It had rained overnight and after my intense climbing day yesterday I was a bit achey so we were very tempted just to stay in bed, but with a poor forecast for the next few days we decided to make the effort!
Destination: Masriudoms again. This place is so steep and overhangs so much that it stays dry even in the heaviest rain (apart from after prolonged periods when the seepage comes through).
I put the draws in the first half of 'Los rancios de la aldea' and then re-redpointed it again. I came down and collected some more draws and then headed on up the extension. It's another incredible addition to the crag - 50m long and with incredible tufa climbing right the way to the top. The crux of the upper half involves taking an undercut with your left hand and then getting your feet really high and doing a strange off-balance cross through move right across your body to get an undercut sidepull which you have to almost fall onto. One final rock-over onto a really high right foot leads to a clip and a rest before another 15m or so of easier, but still pumpy climbing, gets you to the top. The crux section is quite scary, as you already have your feet a few metres above the bolt when you start the hard moves and then it's another 3-4 metres of strange off-balance climbing before the next one. After getting the draws in to the top I managed to link the second half of the route on top-rope, despite being really tired from yesterday, so hopefully next time I manage to get through the bottom half (definitely still the crux of the whole route) I'll be able to have a good go at the extension. Anyway, it's a good one for building up some endurance on, as it's really long with plenty of shake-outs in the upper half and pumpy climbing in between.
Tash made good progress on her project (the pumpy 6c first section of ATP) so she was happy!
It snowed a few centimetres in Siurana today and more forecast for tomorrow, with changeable weather on the way at the weekend so we'll see what we manage to get done in the next few days...
Destination: Masriudoms again. This place is so steep and overhangs so much that it stays dry even in the heaviest rain (apart from after prolonged periods when the seepage comes through).
I put the draws in the first half of 'Los rancios de la aldea' and then re-redpointed it again. I came down and collected some more draws and then headed on up the extension. It's another incredible addition to the crag - 50m long and with incredible tufa climbing right the way to the top. The crux of the upper half involves taking an undercut with your left hand and then getting your feet really high and doing a strange off-balance cross through move right across your body to get an undercut sidepull which you have to almost fall onto. One final rock-over onto a really high right foot leads to a clip and a rest before another 15m or so of easier, but still pumpy climbing, gets you to the top. The crux section is quite scary, as you already have your feet a few metres above the bolt when you start the hard moves and then it's another 3-4 metres of strange off-balance climbing before the next one. After getting the draws in to the top I managed to link the second half of the route on top-rope, despite being really tired from yesterday, so hopefully next time I manage to get through the bottom half (definitely still the crux of the whole route) I'll be able to have a good go at the extension. Anyway, it's a good one for building up some endurance on, as it's really long with plenty of shake-outs in the upper half and pumpy climbing in between.
Tash made good progress on her project (the pumpy 6c first section of ATP) so she was happy!
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| The incredible long routes at Masriudoms - 'Los rancios de la aldea' full route (F8a+), 50m on the left and 'ATP' L3 (F8a), 40m on the right. |
It snowed a few centimetres in Siurana today and more forecast for tomorrow, with changeable weather on the way at the weekend so we'll see what we manage to get done in the next few days...
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| Walking out from Masriudoms in the rain after another successful day. |
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