Welcome to a slightly different blog… From now on Ali will be writing a purely climbing blog and I’ll be covering the “other stuff”. So if you want the beta on his latest crushes click HERE, or read on for the more fluffy stuff from our travels and non climbing life...

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Total Insanity...the first 8 of 2011

Cloud inversion in the valley below

Yet another beautiful sunny day up at Siurana with a nice cloud inversion down in the valley to start with. We returned to the aptly named sector Solarium - very apt today, as by 10am it was already starting to warm up!


The sun creeping onto sector Solarium, Siurana.

I warmed up putting the draws in 'Hipocondriaca' (F7a+) for Tash to top-rope then got straight on to the brilliant 'Total Insanity' (F8a) that I tried last week. It's a superb quality route straight up the middle of the perfect orange & grey streaked wall, so typical of Siurana. Some nice straightforward technical climbing gets you to a good rest before the wall steepens up and the bouldery crux sequence comes, involving a big powerful lock off an undercut pocket with crap right foot and a terrible left hand undercut to get your left foot high so you can bump your left hand into the crack. I set off intending just to put the draws in but I felt good and it was starting to get warm so I decided just to go for it and everything went well. A satisfying dyno to the final jug with feet cutting loose left me with my first 8a of the year - pretty happy to be getting back into it after 2 weeks of eating and zero climbing!


The crux sequence on 'Total Insanity' (F8a)


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