The temperatures remained low this week so it was another cold start to the day driving up to Siurana (-4°). The icefall below Reserva India seems to be forming nicely again! We went to Can Piqui Pugui, one of the most classic 'old-school' sectors in Siurana and somewhere I hadn't been for a while. It's always a good bet that it'll be warm down there and today we weren't disappointed. Perfect climbing temps - t-shirt for climbing and down jacket for belaying. I warmed up on a new 7a (Marvi Forever) to the left of Delicatessen, which was bolted only last year and turned out to be a great route. It still needs a bit more traffic to clean it up properly but the rock and the moves on it were fantastic, and there wasn't even a hint of polish - something which you fully expect to find in such an old sector. Then I got on 'Decidet en petit comite' (soft 7b) - a bit of a one-move-wonder going off the top of the massive flake, but another good route. Tash managed to get the draws in 'Toca-me-la Sam' (6c+) and had a decent redpoint go but fell at the final undercut crux. I then finished with 'Cleptomania' (7c) - a route I'd been saving the on-sight on for a while. I was pleased (a) most importantly to finally get this done, as it has a bit of a reputation as a hard 7c with some quite technical climbing (typical of Siurana!) and (b) that it didn't feel too bad - every move felt totally in control and I still had plenty left at the chains - time to get on some more 7c+ on-sights?! Above all though it was yet another brilliant route - I love Siurana!
The French Petzl team turned up mid-morning (including Alizée Dufraisse and the 15 year old 9a+ wonderkid Enzo Oddo) so we watched them for a bit before it was time to go to work.
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| Alizée Dufraisse (French wad-ess) on the awesome looking 'Chicane' (F8c+) at sector Can Piqui Pugui, Siurana and another French guy on 'Gigololo' (F8a+) in the background. |
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